Welcome to QSClub Glad you found us !!

Why was it so hard to find us ?? I thought we were kinda easy to find

In any case- I'm glad you did !!

What size MTRs did you put on ?? I like those tires... maybe for my Jeep, tho !! 285s fit, and I'm now pretty sure 305s fit with minimal hassle

Both of those will need some lift to fit, tho. That's why I asked what size MTRs you have.

Real Hummer wheels... hmmm... I dunno. With 35~37" MTRs and a nice lift, might be bitchin !!! Might wanna get the specs- backspacing and offset- before dropping any money, tho.

Since you have a 4x4, you have torsion bar suspension, correct ?? You can put a few turns to the t-bar bolts, but don't go too high as you can wear the cv-joints out prematurely. 1.5" is really about it, but every truck is different. If yours came low to begin with, you might get 2".

Other than that, they now make drop-spindles for AWDs (does anyone know how the hell they do that ?!!?), so I'd guess maybe you can get lifted 4x spindles ?? Maybe not... I dunno. I'm still baffled by 4wd drop-spindles

If you're just looking to level it, I guess you could lower the rear by removing the blocks or longer shackles...

I really don't know. I've typed what feels like every variable of "quadrasteer" and "tire size"....but low and behold what google brought me this time.

I've got 245/15 16's on it. I pulled them off my 2002 Land Rover Discovery when I traded. They were massive on the Disco, but teensy weensy on the Chevy. I've got 15k on them total, and they've still got plenty of tread, it just makes me sick every time i walk up to the truck...they're soooo small. I love MT/R's though. Good in everything.

I'm thinking some polished H1 wheels with the Central Tire Inflation System (CTIS) would make a different vehicle out of it. I know the bolt pattern is the same, just concerned with the offset....

On the home page Dan Folsom seems to have a nice setup lift-wise. Dan, have you been happy with it so far? Any problems? I'm just a little hesitant to lift a brand new pickup. I'm going to need a little support through this one. convince me I'm doing the right thing...

hold the phone...i just re-read your post. 285 WILL need a lift?

that last post should read 245/75 16...not 245/15 16

Well, glad you found your way home !!!


Dan has an actual lift kit. You might get what you're looking for just thru the t-bars. It's quick, easy and free !!

But lifting a new truck... depends on you and your dealer, I'd guess...

285s will need some lift to fit. Even with mild lifting, they are known to rub ever so slightly.

i did some checking and looks like the H1 wheels have about a 7" to 7.5" backspacing. I think the standard backspacing for a 3/4 ton is 4.5". Anyone had any experience with spacers, or should I just abandon this whole idea?

What is someone with a 2003 GMC 1500HD supposed to do since we don't have t-bars? I don't want to use spring spacers which I heard suck, so how else can I get rid of the rake?

These Firestone factory tires I have ride like bricks, even with the air pressure backed down to about 42 lbs from the 45-70 front rear or whatever unGodly settings they come with. These are heavy butt trucks at something over 6,400 pounds.

You can both "get rid of the rake" and resolve the "ride like bricks" by simply putting some weight in the back of the truck, positioned between the rear axle centerline and the tailgate. Kill two birds with one stone, for a lot less money than new tires and wheels.

It is still a truck, after all, and naturally both the suspension rake and the tires were designed to accomodate a load. Once a sufficient load is present, the rake disappears, and the ride improves. The drive force traction also improves.

If you don't really need to haul anything real, and have the truck just have a truck (or just to have the Quadrasteer!, and who can blame ya for that!) then get a tonneau cover for the bed and keep a few spare tractor weights, or a few sacks of cement, or a few buckets of scrap lead wheel weights, or bolt a steel plate back there.

Just 500 pounds mounted aft of axle (five sacks of cement, a 10 buck upgrade) will make world of difference. The key is placing this weight AFT of axle, not in the bed near the cab, but near or next to the tailgate, where a longer lever moment can compress the rear suspension while lifting the front suspension.

This should slightly reduce the wheel well opening gap in the rear as well, making the current tires "fill the wheel wells."

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Quadrafacts,

Home centers and some auto parts stores sell 'Tube Sand' which I reccommend for this purpose. It is usually enclosed in a tear-proof woven plastic shell. Having sand also eliminates the problem of water collecting there as it will just drain off thte sand.

Also, there are slots in the bed walls that are made for separating and isolating the load. I went with two 70 pound tubes and two 60 pound tubes with two treated 2x6 boards to isolate them from sliding around.

The ride is better with the weight than without, just like Facts says. Although I did it to improve traction.

Thanks Oddball, for suggessting sand. A much better idea than concrete/cement.

Twenty five years ago I used to wonder what to do with my solid cement cubes shaped like bags that had hardened while piled up in the back of my old F-250 that I used to balance the ride in.

I ended up embedding the blocks in the ground for use as stepping stones.

Now, I drive utility bodies (a work utility and a sport utility). End of weight/ride/traction problem, but that concrete is still buried in the ground!

Sand, duh.

Thanks for the suggestions. I guess the last thing I wanted to do was to add more weight to it but another 100-150 is only another small passenger.

speaking of adding weight to the back i found this bladder for the pickup bed herebed weights

the price isnt too bad and a little more pleasing to the eyes than a bag of sand or cement